Complete Guide to Kayabuki no Sato: Kyoto’s Countryside
Kyoto’s Thatched House Village: Kayabuki No Sato
Website | Google Maps| Instagram
This is not Shirakawago. It’s much less crowded and still a hidden gem located only two hours from Kyoto City.
Kayabuki no Sato, meaning ‘Thatched Roof Village,’ is a designated National Heritage Site. While most thatched-roof houses in the area are private homes belonging to the residents of Miyama, a few have been opened for tours and transformed into cozy cafés, restaurants, and charming gift shops for visitors to enjoy!
I’ve wanted to visit Shirakawago for a long time, but I didn’t want to travel too far since I had already planned to go to Kinosaki Onsen. I also wanted a relaxing solo trip as my time in Japan was coming to an end. While browsing my Google Maps bookmarks, I noticed a small dot in central Kyoto labeled “Kayabuki no Sato.” I thought it would be the perfect place to visit while I was already in Kyoto. My journey started from Kinosaki Onsen, but I’ll provide the logistics from both starting points.
Dates Visited: December 7-9, 2024 (Saturday-Monday) 2 Nights
Planning your trip to Kayabuki no Sato?
Jump to our detailed itinerary guide for a ready-made 1-day and 2-day plan!
Important Notes:
The thatched-roof houses in this area are private homes owned by the residents of Miyama, so please be respectful of their property. For details on how to tour one of these houses or enjoy a delicious meal inside, scroll down to the ‘Things to Do’ and ‘What to Eat’ sections.’
Bring cash! The buses in this area only accept cash (not even Pasmo, Icoca, or other transportation cards), and many small shops/restaurants do not accept credit cards.
Verify bus schedules. Use Google Maps and double-check with your hotel to confirm the bus schedule, as buses run every 1 or 2 hours, and the schedule can vary daily. Google Maps may also display bus stops only in Japanese, so make sure you know the stop names beforehand (using Google Translate or asking your hotel for help).
Bus stops are not announced. The bus does not announce stops, and there are no signs inside the bus. Use Google Maps to track the route, and be sure to press the stop button before your stop to alert the driver.
Check business hours. Don’t rely on Google Maps for restaurant and shop hours. Many businesses post their hours on Instagram (not their websites). Alternatively, you can ask your hotel to call ahead and confirm.
Book accommodations early. If you want to stay near Kayabuki no Sato, book in advance. If you’re booking last minute like I did, Shizen Bunkamura Kajikaso is usually available during the off-season.
How to Get There (by Public Transportation):
Use Google Maps to plan your route, as there are multiple ways to reach this location. I will be showing you the fastest route according to Google Maps.
Google Maps may display the bus stop name in Japanese. To avoid confusion, use Google Translate beforehand to translate the stop name, as the bus driver might ask you for your destination.
From Kyoto Station to Kayabuki no Sato (~2 hours) 1370 yen:
Take the JR San-In Line to Hiyoshi Station (~44 minutes to 1 hour).
At Hiyoshi Station, ask the staff about the bus to Kayabuki no Sato (~46 minutes to 1 hour). They will guide you to the correct bus lane.
Since there are multiple bus lanes, double-check with the driver by mentioning your stop (e.g., “Kayabuki no Sato” or “Chimiguchi”).
Important Tip:
Bus drivers may not know hotel names, so be sure to provide the specific bus stop name instead.
From Kayabuki no Sato to Shizen Bunkamura Kajikaso Hotel (~14 minutes by bus or 28 minutes on foot):
Use Google Maps and Google Translate to confirm the exact bus stop, as the driver may ask you for the name. The bus schedule varies daily, so it’s best to check with the hotel for the latest information.
Important Tips:
During my stay in December, the bus stopped at Miyamamachi Shizen Bunka-mura (right in front of the hotel) on Sundays. On other days, the nearest stop was Chimiguchi.
If you miss the bus, walking is a convenient alternative, taking approximately 28 minutes.
From Kinosaki Onsen to Kayabuki no Sato (3 hours 44 minutes to 4 hours):
Using Google Maps, you’ll find several routes depending on the timing of trains and buses. Here’s the route I took:
Departure: Take the JR Hashidate train from Kinosaki Onsen at 10:34 AM to Fukuchiyama Station.
Transfer: At Fukuchiyama Station, transfer to the local San-In Line (the platform is directly across from where you disembark).
Bus Connection: Once at your destination station, ask the staff about the bus to Kayabuki no Sato (~46 minutes to 1 hour). They will guide you to the correct bus lane.
Important Tips:
There are multiple bus lanes, so double-check with the driver by mentioning your stop (e.g., “Kayabuki no Sato” or “Chimiguchi”).
Bus drivers do not know hotel names, so it’s important to provide the name of your stop.
Where to Stay:
Shizen Bunkamura Kajikaso 美山町自然文化村 河鹿荘
Address: Japan, 〒601-0713 Kyoto, Nantan, 美山町中下向56
Website | Google Maps| Instagram
This is where I stayed and I stayed in a Western style room because it is newer, has a private shower and toilet, offers an amazing river view, and features four twin beds—definitely more than I needed, but it added to the comfort! Bonus: There was Netflix, so I spent one of the rainy afternoons watching anime—hehe.
For a more budget-friendly option and the experience of staying in a traditional thatched house, you can choose this unique accommodation. Keep in mind, though, that the showers and toilets are shared.
Indoor and outdoor onsen (tattoo friendly if you cover it up but there was no one using it during my stay)
Gift shop inside the lobby
Some staff can speak English
Bus stops in front of the hotel on certain days (Sundays during my stay in December)
Fast wifi
Getting There (From Kayabuki no Sato)
A 26-minute walk or a short bus ride (3 stops, 300 yen - Cash Only)
Nearest Bus Stops:
Chimiguchi (8-minute walk)
Miyamamachi Shizen Bunka-mura (right in front of the hotel, available on certain days)
How to Book:
Use your web browser’s translation features to browse and select your accommodation and meal preferences. Once the hotel confirms your booking, you’ll receive an email. Payment is made after check-in, and both credit cards and cash are accepted.
Cost:
I chose the Western-style rooms in the new building which has a private bathroom with Kaiseki meals (breakfast & dinner). My 2 night stay (Sat-Mon) was 38,280円 (~ $243 USD). Price varies depending on the day so please check their website.
Photo Credit: Kayabuki Hisaya
Hisaya 民宿 久や
Address: Nakamaki-5 Miyamachokita, Nantan, Kyoto 601-0712, Japan
Website | Google Maps| Instagram
Stay in one of the traditional thatched-roof homes in the village of Kayabuki no Sato. You will have the entire home to yourself. I would love to stay here next time if I am going with someone!
Getting There (From Kayabuki no Sato)
It is located inside the village of Kayabuki no Sato
How to book:
Email them (using Google Translate for assistance) or call directly. If you’re not comfortable speaking in Japanese, you can ask your current or previous hotel staff to help as they may not speak English.
Cost:
Entire building rental / One night with breakfast
2 adults 30,000 yen (additional charge of 10,000 yen per person)
Children: 7,500 yen per person (ages 6-12)
Photo Credit: Miyama Navi & Google Maps
Kayabuki no oyado matabe かやぶきのお宿 またべ
Address: Japan, 〒601-0712 Kyoto, Nantan, Miyamachokita, Shimomaki−25
Website | Google Maps
This is another thatched-roof accommodation within the village of Kayabuki no Sato. Dinner is local chicken sukiyaki.
Getting There (From Kayabuki no Sato)
It is located inside the village of Kayabuki no Sato.
How to Book:
Similar to Hisaya, you can email them (with Google Translate) or call directly. If needed, ask for assistance from your current or previous hotel staff as they may not speak English.
Cost:
Adult: 12,100 yen (tax included)/person
Children: 6,600 yen (futon, 2 meals included)/3,300 yen (futon included, no meals)/3,300 yen (2 meals included, no futon)Check-in January 25, 2025 - Check-out February 2, 2025
Adult: 15,400 yen (tax included)/person
Children: 8,800 yen (futon, 2 meals included)/5,500 yen (futon included, no meals)/5,500 yen (2 meals included, no futon)
Photo Credit: Miyama Navi & Google Maps
Things to Do:
Miyama Folk Museum 美山民俗資料館
Website | Google Maps
Experience life in a traditional thatched house at this museum, housed in an original building built over 200 years ago.
Fees: 300 yen (cash only)
Hours:
Open: Dec–Mar: 10:00–16:00 | Apr–Nov: 9:00–17:00
Closed: Mondays, Obon Holiday (approx. Aug 10–17), New Year (Dec 25–Jan 5)
Photo Credit: Miyama Navi
The Little Indigo Museum ちいさな藍美術館
Website | Google Maps| Instagram
Founded by Hiroyuki Shindo in 2005, this museum in Miyama features a global indigo textile collection and a traditional dye workshop. It’s housed in the Edo-period Nakano Hachiroemon Residence, Kitamura’s oldest thatched house, once home to a village headman.
Fees: 300 yen (cash only)
Hours:
Open: 11:00am - 5:00pm
Closed: Mondays, Tuesdays, and Fridays
Winter season: Please check Instagram
Photo Credit: Shindo Shindigo & Google Maps
Chii Hachiman Shrine 知井八幡神社
Website| Google Maps
Chii Hachiman Shrine, the central shrine for nine Chii District villages, hosts an October festival with court music and a portable shrine parade. Its grounds are a Kyoto heritage site, and its main structure is a designated cultural property.
Fees: Free
Hours: 24/7 - reception unknown
Photo Credit: Miyama Navi
Kamakura Shrine 鎌倉神社
Google Maps
There’s little information online about this shrine. A few steps in, you’ll find a torii, a traditional Japanese gate marking the entrance to sacred space. Passing through it and turning around reveals a stunning view of the village.
Fees: Free
Hours: 24/7 - reception unknown
Photo Credit: Google Maps
Miyama Kayabuki No Sato Mail Post 美山かやぶきの里 郵便ポスト
Google Maps
This is the perfect photo spot—and it’s a real mail post! Don’t forget to grab a postcard (and international stamps!) from the store mentioned below so you can send a postcard from this iconic location.
Hours: 24/7 - mail gets picked up around 13:00 in the afternoon
Kayabuki no Sato Noda Shoten かやぶきの里 野田商店
Google Maps| Instagram
This charming little gift shop offers tote bags, snacks, postcards, and more! I picked up a postcard here (150–200 yen) along with an international stamp (100 yen). It’s the perfect place to grab one and mail it from the village’s iconic mail post.
Kibi Kobo お土産処 かやの里
Google Maps
This gift shop is located before the entrance of Kayabuki no Sato. It is a little tucked away but make sure you stop by for the cutest souvenirs and ice cream!
Where to Eat:
Whether you’re in the mood for a hearty meal or a quick snack, this small village has plenty of options to satisfy your cravings!
Important Tip:
Please note that the hours for these restaurants and cafes may vary and may not always be accurate on Google Maps. To confirm their operating hours, consider asking the staff at your current or previous hotel to call on your behalf, as many of these establishments may not speak English.
Yūyū hiroba 悠々ひろば
Google Maps
I ended up eating here because the line at the restaurant below was way too long, and I was worried I’d miss my bus (waiting two hours for the next one wasn’t an option!). This spot is cash-only, but it boasts a huge menu, friendly staff, and delicious food. I went for the katsudon, and it didn’t disappoint—the katsu was perfectly crispy and packed with flavor, while the runny eggs were incredibly fresh.
Oshokujidokoro Kitamura お食事処 きたむら
Google Maps
A popular choice, but be prepared for long lines during peak hours. There’s a waitlist where you can add your name. The seating options include standard tables with chairs and traditional floor seating for an authentic touch. Soba is their specialty.
Kamitsure カミツレ
Google Maps | Instagram
This is a storefront-only spot with very limited outdoor seating. The egg sandwiches are a must-try—they look unbelievably thick and juicy!
Cafe Milan カフェ ミラノ
Google Maps | Facebook
Located in the heart of the village, this cozy cafe specializes in coffee and desserts like pudding and gelato.
Cafe&Gallery Saika カフェギャラリー彩花
Google Maps
Another lovely spot for coffee, tea, and desserts. The indoor seating is traditional floor seating, while the outdoor seating is perfect for enjoying the weather when it’s warm.
Sakaya Pizza Cafe さかや ピザカフェ
Craving pizza? This cafe serves freshly made, personal-sized pizzas that are perfect for a quick bite.
Weather:
I visited in early December, so the weather was cold and rainy. If you’re planning a trip around this time, be sure to bundle up with lots of layers, a warm coat (a down jacket is ideal), and don’t forget a rain jacket, umbrella, and maybe even gloves. The upside of the rainy weather? Fewer people around! I even managed to capture moments where there was no one in my photos.
Winter:
The thatched-roof homes look absolutely stunning in winter, covered in a blanket of snow! However, it can get freezing cold, so be sure to bundle up and consider carrying some hand warmer packets, which you can conveniently find at 100-yen shops in Kyoto City.
Spring:
Nestled in the mountains, Kayabuki no Sato in Miyama remains a bit chilly during spring as the snow gradually melts, so a light jacket is a good idea. You might get lucky and spot a few Cherry Blossom trees.
Summer:
Summer brings festive vibes, including the Obon Festival in which people dance to welcome the spirits of their ancestors back from the spirit world on August 15th. While it’s cooler here than in Kyoto City, the warm weather makes outdoor activities enjoyable.
Fall:
Autumn offers crisp, cool weather and the enchanting sight of leaves turning vibrant colors—a perfect season for picturesque views.
Final Thoughts:
Honestly, I initially doubted my decision to come here because of how remote it was. At times, I was the only one on the bus, and I was definitely the only person walking along the road to and from the hotel and Kayabuki no Sato. It was so quiet that I felt like I might have been the only guest at the hotel. But wow—I’m so glad I went.
Staying in the countryside was incredibly peaceful and relaxing. My room at Shizen Bunkamura Kajikaso exceeded all expectations—it was modern, spotless, and the large balcony overlooking the river and mountains offered a view that felt like something out of a dream. The hotel also features both indoor and outdoor onsen, which made the experience even more rejuvenating. If you’d like to see more of this serene retreat, check out my YouTube video here! I captured the breathtaking views, the tranquil atmosphere, and the charm of Kayabuki no Sato.
While the food at the hotel wasn’t the best I’ve had, it was still good. I’m glad I opted for the meal plan, as there are no restaurants nearby, and the ones in the village close early.
Kayabuki no Sato is such a charming and quaint village. It’s small but perfect for a one- or two-day trip. There were times when the tour buses rolled in, but there were also quiet moments—especially when it rained—where I had the village almost entirely to myself.
If you’re looking for a peaceful getaway from Kyoto, this is the perfect destination. One night is enough to see everything, but staying two nights lets you embrace the slower pace and truly unwind.
Other things to do in the Area:
Kinosaki Onsen:
As mentioned briefly above, I started my trip from Kinosaki Onsen (which made for a longer trek), but it’s definitely an option to consider. Check out my blog post here for more details.
Amanohishidate:
Another option is to visit Amanohishidate which is a breathtaking natural sandbar located in Miyazu Bay, Kyoto Prefecture, and is celebrated as one of Japan’s “Three Scenic Views” (Nihon Sankei). This iconic landform stretches approximately 3.6 kilometers across the bay, connecting the northern and southern shores. The sandbar is adorned with over 8,000 pine trees and offers stunning views that change with the seasons—from lush greens in summer to snow-dusted landscapes in winter. The name “Amanohashidate” translates to “Bridge to Heaven,” as its shape resembles a pathway connecting the earth to the heavens. I haven’t had the chance to visit this area yet, but it seems like a fantastic option for a day trip or an overnight stay!